Okay, let's get real about Leland, Michigan. You've probably heard about Fishtown and those iconic shanties, but what's it actually like to spend a day or weekend here? I've been coming up to Leelanau County for 15 summers now, and Leland’s got this... mood. It’s not your typical polished tourist town. Things move slower. Sometimes you wait 40 minutes for a sandwich at the Cheese Shop because everyone’s chatting. That’s the charm, honestly. If you're rushing? Might drive you nuts. But if you lean into it, you'll find some of the most authentic Great Lakes experiences anywhere. This guide cuts through the fluff – I’ll tell you what’s worth your time, what’s overhyped, and exactly how to navigate this quirky slice of Northern Michigan.
The Heart of Leland: Fishtown Can't Be Missed (But Do It Right)
Fishtown isn't just an attraction; it's Leland's soul. Those weathered shanties perched over the river? They're functional businesses, not a museum exhibit. I remember my first time seeing the fishtug "Joy" docked next to Carlson's Fishery – the smell of smoked fish hit me before I even saw the building. That’s Fishtown. Raw, working, salty. The downside? Parking’s a nightmare July-August. Seriously, arrive before 10 AM or after 4 PM, or park up the hill near the school and walk down.
Must-Do Fishtown Experiences:
- Carlson's Fishery: Buy smoked whitefish or trout right off the boat (if you're lucky). Their smoked fish spread? Worth the $12 tub. Open daily 8 AM - 6 PM (May-Oct), cash only. 205 River St.
- Fishtown Preservation Walking Tour: Free self-guided tour plaques tell stories of the Norwegian fishermen who built this place. Start near the dam.
- River Cruises: Miss Kathryn does 90-min historical tours ($35 adults). Leaves from the Fishtown dock. Book 2 days ahead in peak season! Their sunset cruise feels magical.
Local Gripe: That famous "Dam Candy Store"? Yeah, it’s cute for fudge and taffy, but $8 for a small bag feels steep. Better value across the river at Village Cheese Shoppe. Just being honest!
Nature Wins: Outdoor Things to Do in Leland MI
Leland sits between Lake Michigan and Lake Leelanau – water defines everything. The beaches aren't wide expanses; they're intimate coves with stunning clarity. Van's Beach (Lake St. access) has the best sunset views, but parking fills fast. Pro tip: Walk the path north towards the old Coast Guard station ruins. Feels secret.
| Activity | Details | Cost/Practicalities |
|---|---|---|
| Kayaking the Leland River | Paddle past Fishtown into Lake Leelanau. Calm water, great for beginners. Rent singles ($25/2hr) or doubles ($40/2hr) at Riverside Canoes (110 E Cedar St). Open 9 AM - 7 PM daily (Memorial Day - Labor Day). | Book online 24hrs ahead. No experience needed. Life jackets provided. |
| Clay Cliffs Natural Area | Short hike (0.8 miles) to dramatic 300-ft clay bluffs over Lake Michigan. Unreal colors at sunset. Parking lot off N Manitou Trail (limited spaces!). | Free entry. Trail uneven; wear sturdy shoes. No facilities. Best early AM. |
| Fishing Charter | Target salmon, trout on Lake Michigan. Reel Fun Charters runs 4-8hr trips (Captain Dave knows his stuff). Leaves from Leland Marina. | $600-$950 for 4-6 people. Includes gear/licenses. Book months ahead for summer. |
| Bike the Leelanau Trail | Paved trail section from Suttons Bay to Leland (9 miles one way). Rent bikes at The Bike Shack (215 W Cedar St, $35/day). | Trail free. Moderate hills. Shuttle service available back from Suttons Bay ($15/person). |
My brutal opinion? Skip the crowded beach at the end of Main St. Drive 10 minutes south to Whaleback Natural Area – same turquoise water, maybe 5 people there. Feels like your own discovery.
Fueling Up: Where to Eat & Drink in Leland (Beyond Tourist Traps)
Look, Leland has two speeds: quick Fishtown bites or sit-down dinners. Casual lunch spots rule here. Don’t expect fancy gastropubs. My ritual? Coffee at Blue Boat Coffee (their lavender latte is worth the $6.50), then a Village Cheese Shoppe sandwich eaten on the river wall watching boats.
| Spot | What to Get | Practical Info | My Take |
|---|---|---|---|
| Village Cheese Shoppe | #7 "The Fishtown" (smoked whitefish salad on rye). Soup of the day. | 407 N Main St. Open 10 AM - 5:30 PM. Order at counter. Expect 20-min wait. Cash/Card. Sandwiches $14-$16. | Iconic. Always busy but efficient. Portions generous. Eat outside. |
| The Cove | Fish tacos (fresh catch), Leland Burger. Waterfront patio. | 111 Main St. Open 11:30 AM - 9 PM. Dinner reservations essential. Entrees $22-$34. | Best dinner views. Food good, not great. Go for drinks/apps at sunset. |
| Fishtown Pretzel Co. | Fresh soft pretzels ($5), beer cheese dip ($3 extra). | In Fishtown. Open 10 AM - 4 PM (seasonal). Cash only. | Perfect salty snack after kayaking. Simple & satisfying. |
| Early Bird Breakfast | Cherry Stuffed French Toast, Local Scramble. | 102 Main St. Open 7 AM - 1 PM. No reservations. Entrees $10-$14. | Best breakfast! Small, gets packed. Arrive by 8 AM weekends. |
Confession: I find the upscale The Riverside Inn overrated for dinner. Pretty setting, but $42 for walleye feels steep when you can grill fresh catch yourself. Better value? Grab smoked trout from Carlson’s, bread from 9 Bean Rows bakery (1 mile south on M-22), picnic at the beach.
Finding Treasures: Unique Shopping in Leland
Forget chain stores. Fishtown shops are tiny, specialized, and packed with character (and people!). Go early or embrace the shuffle.
- Leland Gal (119 N Main St): High-end women’s resort wear. Think flowy linen dresses ($120-$250). Open 10 AM-5 PM. Owner Sue remembers repeat customers – personal touch.
- Fishtown Pottery (202 River St): Functional stoneware mugs ($28-$45) made onsite. Watch potters work. Cash/check only. Hours erratic – call first.
- Leelanau Books (109 N Main St): Cozy indie bookstore. Great Michigan authors section. Staff picks are spot-on. Open daily 9 AM-7 PM.
Shop Smart: Most Fishtown shops close by 5:30 PM. Main Street stays open later (until 6-7 PM). Tuesdays feel quieter than weekends.
Beyond Summer: Year-Round Things to Do in Leland MI
October might be Leland's secret best month. Crowds vanish. Colors explode. Salmon run up the river near the dam. Fishtown feels moody and atmospheric.
- Fall (Sept-Oct): Wine Tour Leelanau wineries (15 mins south). L. Mawby sparkling wines worth the detour. Hiking Clay Cliffs without sweating buckets.
- Winter (Dec-Mar): Fishtown covered in snow = magical photos. Cross-country ski Leelanau Trail (ungroomed, bring your own gear). The Cove stays open weekends only – call ahead.
- Spring (Apr-May): Trout fishing heats up. Few tourists. Some shops reopen late May.
Honestly, visiting off-season means accepting limited hours. But having Fishtown almost to yourself? Priceless.
Smart Trip Planning: Logistics for Visiting Leland
Getting There & Parking
Leland’s 25 miles from Traverse City Cherry Capital Airport (TVC). Rental car essential. No Uber/Lyft reliably. Main parking lot fills by 11 AM daily (free, 3-hour limit). Overflow parking at Leland Township Library (up the hill on N 4th St) – 5 min walk down.
Where to Stay
- Leland Lodge (Main St): Basic motel. Clean. Walk everywhere. Rooms $225-$285/night peak summer. Book 6+ months ahead.
- Fishtown Cottages (River St): Historic, RIGHT in Fishtown. Quirky, no AC. $400+/night. Minimum stays apply.
- VRBO/Airbnb: Houses north of town or near Lake Leelanau offer best value. $250-$600/night. Many require Sat-Sat summer bookings.
My advice? Stay in nearby Suttons Bay (10 mins east). More lodging options, cheaper rates, easy drive to Leland for the day.
Budget Real Talk
Leland ain’t cheap. Summer daily budget for two: $150-$250 (food, activities, parking, treats). Save money: Pack picnics, bike instead of driving everywhere, focus on free hikes/beaches.
Your Burning Questions: Leland MI FAQs Answered
How many days do I need for things to do in Leland Michigan?
One FULL day covers Fishtown, a hike/kayak, and key eats. Two days lets you relax, explore beaches, maybe bike the trail. It's small – base yourself here if you want quiet nights.
Is Leland kid-friendly?
Absolutely! Kids love Fishtown's docks, watching fish being smoked, pretzels, ice cream, and beachcombing Van's Beach. Teens might find it slow unless they love nature photos or fishing.
What’s the closest major airport?
Cherry Capital Airport (TVC) in Traverse City is 45 minutes drive. Detroit Metro (DTW) is 4+ hours – factor that in.
Can I visit Fishtown shops in winter?
Most close after Octoberfest weekend (early Oct) until late April/May. Carlson’s sells frozen smoked fish by appointment off-season. The vibe shifts dramatically – quiet beauty vs bustling summer.
Are there public restrooms?
Yes! Behind the Cheese Shoppe (near river) and in the main parking lot. Surprisingly clean. Free.
What’s the one thing I shouldn’t miss?
Sitting on the river wall at Fishtown with a Carlson’s smoked fish sandwich as the charter boats come in. Pure Michigan postcard moment.
Final thought? Leland refuses to be polished. Its weathered wood, fishy smells, slow pace – that is the magic. Don't rush it. Let a rainy afternoon in a Fishtown shop or an extra hour watching the river flow become part of your story. That’s when you really find the best things to do in Leland MI.
Leave a Comments