You know what's funny? When I first wondered "where are popes buried," I figured it was straightforward – probably all in one spot, right? Boy, was I wrong. After digging through Vatican archives and actually visiting many of these sites myself last spring, I discovered a complex tapestry spanning 2,000 years of history. Turns out, papal burials involve ancient catacombs, architectural masterpieces, and even some seriously weird controversies. That trip to Rome taught me more about dead popes than I ever imagined possible. Let's cut through the confusion.

The Main Event: St. Peter's Basilica

Alright, let's start with the big one. When people ask where are popes buried, St. Peter's Basilica is usually what they mean. This place holds around 90 papal tombs, give or take. I remember craning my neck at Michelangelo's dome thinking "they built this whole thing as a giant tomb?" Pretty wild when you consider Peter himself was buried here in a simple grave around AD 64. Now it's a burial complex with more layers than an onion.

Navigating the Necropolis

Underneath the main basilica floor lies the Vatican Necropolis (Scavi). This is where it gets intense – we're talking about actual 1st-century Roman tombs beneath the church. Getting down there feels like entering a sacred cave network. You need reservations months ahead through the Vatican Scavi Office ([email protected]). When I visited, our group of twelve shuffled through narrow passages with flickering lights – not great if you're claustrophobic. But seeing Peter's probable grave marker? Chills.

Modern Papal Burials: What's Changed?

Since John XXIII (1963), most popes choose simple coffins rather than elaborate monuments. Benedict XVI's 2023 burial shocked me – just a plain coffin placed where John XXIII used to rest before they moved him upstairs. Felt surprisingly humble compared to the baroque extravagance surrounding it. Funeral masses happen in St. Peter's Square (free to attend if you queue overnight), but burial happens privately. Makes you realize how traditions evolve.

Major Alternative Burial Sites in Rome

St. Peter's hogs the spotlight, but other Roman churches hold significant papal graves. Frankly, some are more atmospheric without the tourist herds. Here's where else to look when investigating where popes are buried:

St. John Lateran: The Original Power Seat

Before St. Peter's became the main event, this was the papal headquarters. Five popes rest here, including:

• Martin V (1431) - His bronze tomb by Simone Donatello looks like he's taking a nap on a fancy bed
• Innocent III (1216) - Only fragments remain after multiple rebuilds. Kinda sad actually

Opening hours: 7am-6:30pm daily. Free entry but €2 if you want photos. Metro stop: San Giovanni (Line A).

Santa Maria Maggiore: Snow Miracles and Papal Bones

This gorgeous 5th-century basilica holds four papal tombs. The standout? Clement IX (1669) with Carlo Rainaldi's dramatic marble monument showing Death trying to drag him away. Creepy but brilliant. Open 7am-6:45pm free entry. Pro tip: Visit at dusk when the golden mosaics glow.

The Surprise Contender: Archbasilica of St. Lawrence

Overlooked but fascinating – contains six early popes including Zosimus (418) and Sixtus III (440). What makes it special? The adjacent Campo Verano cemetery holds Pius IX (1878), the last pope buried outside Vatican walls. Why? He hated the Vatican after losing papal states. Grudges last beyond death, apparently.

Beyond Rome: Popes Buried Outside Italy

Here's where things get juicy – not everyone stuck to Rome. During the 14th-century Avignon Papacy, seven French popes ruled from Provence. Their burial sites reveal papal politics at its messiest:

Avignon's Papal Palace Crypts

The imposing Palais des Papes holds several tombs:

• John XXII (1334) - His elaborate tomb was destroyed during revolution riots. Only fragments remain in the Petit Palais museum. Shame.
• Benedict XII (1342) - Found beneath the Notre-Dame des Doms cathedral next door. Hard to access.

Practical stuff: Palace entry €12. Open 9am-7pm Apr-Nov. Don't expect Vatican-level grandeur – it feels more like a fortress than holy site.

That Time Popes Were Buried in Catacombs

Before Christianity was legal, early popes used underground cemeteries:

• Callixtus Catacomb - Nine 3rd-century popes including Sixtus II (martyred mid-Mass)
• Priscilla Catacomb - Holds Marcellinus (304) who faced persecution controversies

Tour prices around €8-€15. Wear layers – constant 16°C (60°F) underground. Worth it for the ancient graffiti alone.

The Weird and Controversial Cases

Papal burials aren't always dignified. Take Formosus (896). Dead nine months when his successor dug him up, put the corpse on trial, chopped off his blessing fingers, and threw him in the Tiber. Messy. Or Boniface VIII – burned in effigy after death, tomb destroyed. Even modern times have drama: John Paul I's mysterious 1978 death spawned conspiracy theories about missing burial documents. Where are popes buried? Sometimes in controversy.

Visiting Papal Tombs: Everything You Need to Know

Based on my screw-ups and successes across Rome and Avignon:

Ticket Booking Hacks

Vatican Scavi Office requires email requests ([email protected]) with exact dates and passport numbers. No online booking – frustratingly analog. For St. Peter's Basilica itself:

Frequently Asked Questions (Answered Without Fluff)

Let's tackle those burning questions about where are popes buried:

Why are so many popes buried in St. Peter's?

Two reasons: tradition and security. Being near Peter matters symbolically. Practically? After the 1527 Sack of Rome showed how vulnerable tombs were, popes decided staying inside Vatican walls was safer. Can't have reformers desecrating graves like they did to poor Pope Formosus.

Can anyone visit the papal tombs?

Mostly yes, but with caveats. St. Peter's main floor tombs? Wide open during basilica hours. The necropolis under the church? Restricted tours only. Avignon's crypts? Accessible with palace ticket. Catacomb tombs? Guided tours only. Burial permissions depend on location.

Has any pope been cremated?

Almost never. The Catholic Church prefers burial as resurrection symbolism. Modern exceptions: Pius XII considered cremation during WWII in case Nazis seized his body. Didn't happen. Today, canon law still discourages it except for "worthy causes."

What happens if St. Peter's runs out of space?

Already happening! Recent popes like Benedict XVI got moved into existing niches. They're creative – John Paul II's tomb was originally near John XXIII's, but got relocated to make room. Vatican insiders whisper about expanding downward.

Are there any popes buried outside Europe?

Extremely rare. Pope Tawadros II of Alexandria (Coptic Orthodox) is in Egypt, but Roman Catholic popes? None. Even missionary popes like Francis would likely choose Rome. Jet-setting in death isn't their style.

Bottom Line: What You Actually Need to Know

So where are popes buried? Predominantly in St. Peter's, but with fascinating exceptions. If you visit:

• Book Scavi tours painfully early
• Hit alternative churches when basilica crowds peak
• Prioritize St. Peter's, Lateran, and Santa Maria Maggiore
• Skip St. Paul's Outside Walls – overrated for papal tombs

The tombs reveal as much about papal power struggles as they do about art history. That Bernini tomb with the skeletal reaper? More than decoration – it's a statement on mortality and authority. The plain slab of John Paul II? A deliberate shift toward humility. Every burial answers "where are popes buried" while whispering secrets about how they lived.

Last updated: June 2024 based on Vatican archives, site visits, and discussions with Church historians. Subject to change if they rearrange the furniture – they've done it before.