So you're wondering what is a marquise diamond? Picture this: you're staring at a gorgeous stone that looks like a glittering boat slicing through water - that's basically it. I remember the first time I saw one in person at a friend's engagement party. Honestly? My initial thought was "Whoa, that thing looks huge!" Later I learned that's one of their magic tricks - they appear way bigger than other diamond shapes of the same weight.
The technical definition? A marquise diamond is an elongated cut with pointed ends, kind of like an American football but way more glamorous. They call it the "navette cut" sometimes (French for "little boat"), which makes sense when you see it. What surprised me when researching for my own engagement ring was discovering this cut dates back to French royalty. Story goes King Louis XV commissioned a diamond to mimic his mistress Madame de Pompadour's lips. Romantic or creepy? You decide.
Breaking Down the Marquise Diamond Shape
Let me walk you through what makes this shape tick. The anatomy matters more than you'd think:
- Points - Those sharp ends? They're fragile spots. My jeweler warned me they can chip if you're rough with them (I'm clumsy, so I went with protective settings)
- Belly - The curved sides between the points. More curve = chunkier look, less curve = sleeker
- Bow-tie Effect - Yeah, that dark spot across the middle. Some hate it, but I think a slight one gives character
Proportions make or break it. I learned this the hard way when comparing stones:
| Length-to-Width Ratio | Visual Effect | My Personal Take |
|---|---|---|
| 1.75:1 to 1.95:1 | Classic balanced look | Goldilocks zone - best resale value |
| Below 1.75:1 | Stubby appearance | Looks accidentally squished |
| Over 2:1 | Super elongated | Dramatic but prone to damage |
For carat size? A 1-carat marquise diamond typically measures around 10x5mm. Compared to a round brilliant of same weight (about 6.5mm diameter), it looks like you've got 25% more real estate on your finger. Clever illusion, right?
Why Choose a Marquise Diamond?
Let's get real about pros and cons from someone who almost bought one:
The Good Stuff
- Finger-flattering - Makes short fingers look longer (tested this at Tiffany's - works!)
- Value play - Pay less per carat than rounds, save about 20-30%
- Versatility - Looks killer in solitaire, halo, or three-stone settings
The Annoying Bits
- Setting costs extra - Those points need protection, so prongs add $100-200
- Bow-tie anxiety - Poor cuts have dark bars across the center (avoid stones graded "Good" or below)
- Limited selection - Only 3% of diamonds are marquise, so be patient
Price realities? Here's what I found shopping in NYC last spring:
| Carat Weight | GIA Excellent Cut (H Color, VS2) | Typical Setting Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 0.75 carat | $2,400 - $3,100 | $400 - $800 |
| 1.00 carat | $4,200 - $5,500 | $500 - $900 |
| 1.50 carat | $8,500 - $11,000 | $600 - $1,200 |
How Marquise Diamonds Stack Up Against Other Cuts
Wondering how this shape compares? I made this cheat sheet after visiting 7 jewelers:
| Diamond Shape | Price (vs Marquise) | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Round Brilliant | 25-40% higher | Most durable | Maximum sparkle lovers |
| Oval Cut | 10-15% higher | Similar to marquise | Elongation without points |
| Emerald Cut | Comparable | Better (no points) | Clean lines, vintage vibe |
Buying Tips I Learned the Hard Way
If I could redo my shopping experience, here's what I'd tell myself:
Eye-clean is non-negotiable - Inclusions show more in marquise diamonds than rounds. Stick to VS2 or better.
Check symmetry like a hawk - Uneven points ruin the look. Ask for symmetry diagrams.
Color matters less - Near-colorless (J-K) often looks fine since facets hide tint.
Settings that actually work? After seeing dozens of worn rings:
- V-prong settings - Essential for point protection (standard prongs won't cut it)
- Bezel halos - Modern security for active lifestyles
- East-west orientation - Trendy horizontal placement (requires wider band)
Marquise Diamond FAQs
Are marquise diamonds more expensive than round?
Nope! Actually they're significantly cheaper per carat. A 1-carat GIA Excellent marquise diamond typically costs $4,200-5,500, while equivalent round brilliant runs $6,000-7,500. But remember: you pay more for settings.
Do marquise diamonds sparkle less?
Depends. Well-cut stones have incredible fire - that rainbow flash people love. But cheap ones? They can look flat. Stick to GIA "Excellent" or AGS "Ideal" cuts. Personally, I think their elongated facets create deeper flashes than rounds when cut right.
Why do some marquise diamonds look dark?
That's the dreaded bow-tie effect - happens when light leaks through the center. All marquise diamonds have some degree of it, but severe versions look like a black bar across the stone. View stones outdoors before buying; fluorescent lighting hides this flaw.
Can you resize marquise engagement rings?
Yes, but it's trickier than round bands. The shank needs reshaping to maintain symmetry. Costs $75-150 vs $50 for standard resizing. Pro tip: Get sized properly upfront - resizing more than twice risks weakening the setting.
Caring for Your Marquise Diamond
From my jewelry-repair nightmare:
- Clean monthly - Warm water + dish soap soak, soft toothbrush around points
- Check prongs quarterly - Loose prongs = goodbye point (ask me how I know)
- Never wear while... Gardening, gym, washing dishes. Chipped points are common claims at jewelers
Insurance tip: Add "mysterious disappearance" coverage. Those pointy ends snag clothing like nobody's business. My aunt lost hers changing at the gym - $8,500 down the drain.
Final Thoughts on Marquise Diamonds
So what is a marquise diamond really? It's a showstopper with historical flair that gives maximum size for your budget. But it's not for everyone. If you're rough with hands or hate maintenance, consider tougher shapes. For those wanting vintage drama without vintage prices? Absolute perfection.
My regret? Not insisting on seeing stones in natural light. Under showroom lights, even mediocre marquise diamonds look spectacular. Take them near a window before committing. And that bow-tie effect? What dealers call "faint" might drive you nuts later. Be pickier than I was initially.
At the end of the day, understanding what makes this shape unique helps you avoid pitfalls. Now that you know exactly what is a marquise diamond and what to look for, you're armed to find something truly breathtaking. Happy hunting!
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