Right then. Let's talk about the West Highland Way Scotland route. You've probably seen those dreamy Instagram shots – misty lochs, epic mountains, happy hikers with tidy hair. Reality check: my hair looked like a bird's nest after Day 2. But was it worth it? Absolutely. Having tackled this beast twice (once in glorious sunshine, once in classic Scottish drizzle), I'll give you the raw, practical truth nobody tells you.
The West Highland Way Step-by-Step Breakdown
This 96-mile trail from Milngavie to Fort William isn't just one landscape. It's like flipping through Scotland's greatest hits album. But planning is everything. Most folks split it into 6-8 days. Personally? Seven felt right – enough challenge without destroying your knees.
Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen (12 miles)
Gentle start. Paved paths through woods, past Mugdock Castle ruins (free entry, always open). Stop at The Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha for Cullen Skink soup (£6). Real talk: this section feels tame. Good for warming up.
Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan (14 miles)
Hello, Loch Lomond! Conic Hill kicks things up – steep but short. Views? Unreal. Pack lunch – options are sparse. Ferry note: If you skip Rowardennan, catch the water taxi from Inversnaid Hotel (£8 cash only, runs May-Sep 10am-5pm).
My Blunder: Tried "making good time" on Day 2. Ended up limping into Rowardennan. Don't be me. Those rocky paths by the loch are ankle-breakers.
Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan (14 miles)
Toughest terrain. Scrambly bits north of Inversnaid. The Drovers Inn at finish line – creaky, haunted (they claim), serves massive haggis pies (£14). Worth every penny.
Day 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum (13 miles)
Eases up. Wide paths through Glen Falloch. Green Welly Stop in Tyndrum does killer breakfasts (opens 7am). Bunkhouse alert: By the Way Hostel books solid – reserve months ahead.
Day 5: Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy (9 miles)
Shortest leg. Good for recovery. Views open dramatically. Lunch at Real Food Café Tyndrum – legendary fish & chips (£11).
Day 6: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse (12 miles)
Highlight territory. Rannoch Moor feels lunar. Kingshouse Hotel's "Climbers Bar" has cheap(er) pub grub. Try their venison burger (£15).
Day 7: Kingshouse to Fort William (15 miles)
Devil's Staircase climb gets hype but it's fine. Kinlochleven halfway has ice cream shops. Finish at Gordon Square – grab a dram at Grog & Gruel pub.
| Essential Stop | What to Get | Price Range | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Oak Tree Inn (Balmaha) | Cullen Skink / Beer Bread | £6-£12 | First real Loch Lomond views |
| Drovers Inn (Inverarnan) | Haggis Pie / Local Ale | £10-£18 | Historic 1705 pub with live folk music |
| Real Food Café (Tyndrum) | Fish Supper / Black Pudding | £8-£14 | Massive portions for carb-loading |
| Climbers Bar (Kingshouse) | Venison Burger / Whisky | £9-£16 | Only option for miles – book ahead! |
Costs Nobody Talks About
Forget just gear costs. The West Highland Way Scotland hike nickel-and-dimes you. Budget breakdown for solo hikers:
- Accommodation: £30-£120/night (camping to hotels). Bunkhouses average £35.
- Food: £25-£40/day. Pubs charge premium – £17 for pasta?! Pack snacks.
- Transfers: Bag couriers cost £12-£15/day. Worth every quid if you ask me.
- Emergency Taxi: From Kinlochleven to Fort William: £60. (Yep, needed that once.)
Total realistic minimum: £500 for 7 days. Luxury? Over £1500. Mid-range comfort: £800-£900.
Gear That Actually Works Here
Scotland laughs at "waterproof" labels. After two soggy attempts, here's my battle-tested kit:
- Boots: NOT new ones. Blisters will murder you. Break them in for 50+ miles first.
- Socks: Merino wool x 3 pairs. Cotton = trench foot.
- Midge Net: June-August? Non-negotiable. Smidge repellent (£8) saves sanity.
- Waterproofs: Not jackets – actual rain pants. Scottish sideways rain soaks everything.
- Trekking Poles: Saved my knees on descents. Hire locally for £15/week.
Regret Moment: Skimped on sleeping bag first trip. Scottish nights get COLD even in summer. 3-season bag minimum.
When to Walk West Highland Way Scotland
Tricky. Avoid July-August unless you enjoy crowds and midge swarms. My pick? Late May or September.
| Season | Pros | Cons | Crowd Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| April-May | Wildflowers, quiet trails | Unpredictable snow on high passes | Low |
| June | Long daylight (18hrs!) | Midges start emerging | Medium |
| July-Aug | Warmest temps | Peak midges, booked-out accommodation | High |
| September | Autumn colors, fewer bugs | Shorter days, increasing rain | Medium |
Getting There & Away
Logistics trip people up. Glasgow is your gateway:
- To Milngavie: Train from Glasgow Queen Street (£5.20, 25 mins, hourly). Starts right by the obelisk.
- From Fort William: ScotRail to Glasgow (£35, 4hrs). Book advance tickets online – saves 60%.
- Car Shuttles: Companies like Traveline Scotland return you to start (£65). Book early!
Flight tip: Fly into Edinburgh? Takes longer but often cheaper than Glasgow. Airport bus to city centre then train.
Sleeping Rough or Soft?
Accommodation divides opinion. Camping sounds romantic until night three of torrential rain.
- Wild Camping: Legal but brutal. Midges swarm sunset/sunrise. Requires serious gear.
- Official Sites: £8-£15/night. Rowardennan & Inverarnan have best facilities.
- Bunkhouses: £25-£40. Social but snoring strangers included. BYO earplugs.
- B&Bs: £70-£120. Hot showers and cooked brekkie worth every penny after Day 5.
Booking secret: Many places require 2-night stays July-August. Plan around that.
Why This Isn't Just Another Hike
Look, plenty trails are beautiful. But the West Highland Way Scotland route? It’s character-building. There’s something about watching clouds rip over Buachaille Etive Mor after days of walking that sticks with you. Even when your feet are screaming.
Met a 70-year-old doing it solo last September. "Keeps me from getting old," he winked. Maybe he’s onto something.
Brutal Honesty: The Downsides
Not all heather and happiness. Things I wish I knew:
- Waymarking Gaps: Signage vanishes near Crianlarich. Download OS Maps app (£24/year).
- Road Walking: 15% is on tarmac. Hard on feet. Bring cushioned insoles.
- Overcrowding: Summer feels like a conveyor belt. Start early or go offseason.
- Midges: Tiny demons. Worse near water at dawn/dusk. Head nets aren't optional.
West Highland Way Scotland FAQ
Can beginners handle this trail?
Yes, if trained. Walk 10 miles with pack 3x/week for 2 months before. Day 3 breaks unfit people.
Do I need guidebooks?
Waste of weight. Use Walkhighlands.co.uk for free PDF maps. Updated constantly.
Is water safe to drink?
Mostly yes (streams & taps). Carry 2L anyway. Treatment tablets advised after Rowardennan.
Are dogs allowed?
Yes, but tough. Livestock areas require leads. Many B&Bs forbid them. Consider carefully.
How bad are the midges REALLY?
Imagine clouds of biting grit. July/August near water is hellish. Avoid stopping between 6-9pm.
Can I wild camp the whole way?
Legally yes. Practically? Hard between Drymen-Sallochy (camping bans). Use designated sites there.
What's mobile signal like?
EE network has best coverage. Dead zones around Rannoch Moor. Tell someone your itinerary.
Is the finish anti-climactic?
Fort William's high street isn't pretty. But touching that finisher's statue? Pure joy.
The Bottom Line
Walking the West Highland Way Scotland route tests you. It’s muddy, expensive at times, and weather’s fickle. But standing at Glen Coe as sunlight punches through clouds? Or that first pint in Fort William? Magic. Just pack extra socks. Seriously.
Would I do it again? Ask me when these blisters heal.
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